Mahakumbh 2025

Mahakumbh 2025

As soon as the name "Kumbh Mela" is mentioned, the image of a grand collective holy bath immediately comes to every Indian’s mind. Taking a dip in the Kumbh is a cherished dream for every Hindu. Although it is just water from a flowing river, which one can bathe in at any time, this festival holds immense significance due to its connection with celestial alignments, making it uniquely popular.

The term "Kumbh" (pot) symbolizes a gathering. Our ancestors counted 45 stars in the Aquarius constellation and linked the Sun’s transition into Aquarius from Makar Sankranti, creating a grand 45-day festival. This festival traces its roots to the mythological tale of the churning of the ocean by gods and demons, where the pot of nectar (Amrit Kumbh) was left open, and wherever its drops fell became the sites of the Kumbh Mela. The spiritual structure of Hinduism in India includes Shankaracharya's four Peethas, the 51 Shakti Peethas of Sati, and grand festivals like the Kumbh Mela.

Past Experience of Kumbh Mela (1987) & Present Journey

In 1987, as part of administrative training, we were sent to the Haridwar Kumbh Mela. Our focus then was on managing the massive influx of pilgrims—ensuring smooth transportation, accommodation, food, sanitation, security, traffic control, and more. Even a small administrative lapse could lead to major chaos.

After 38 years, an unexpected opportunity arose to attend the Mahakumbh in Prayagraj this year. This time, rather than an administrative perspective, my focus was on the millions of people—elderly, young, women, and children—walking towards their spiritual goal.

Though the Kumbh Mela has been celebrated for centuries, modern India, especially in the 21st century, has amplified its reach through technology and social media. The growing economy allows for greater participation, and with each event, the government administration learns from past experiences, ensuring smoother execution. However, any unfortunate incident leads to widespread criticism.

This year, the number of visitors to Prayagraj Mahakumbh far exceeded expectations, largely due to extensive publicity. I kept following every update in newspapers and on social media. My son suggested we go when airfares were low, but the sheer scale of the fair made me hesitant. Later, as airfares skyrocketed fivefold, I learned about a Gujarat government Volvo bus service, which reignited my desire to go. The package offered a 4-day, 3-night trip covering 2,500 km for just ₹8,200, including accommodation. My wife agreed, and a quick phone call secured our seats. On January 27, the idea was born; on January 28, tickets were booked; and by January 29 morning, we were on our way with minimal luggage—two pairs of clothes, some woolens, and essentials in two shoulder bags.

The Journey Begins

The Volvo bus had 46 travelers—26 men and 20 women, a mix of young and elderly. The journey was lively, with girls leading games and antakshari (musical rounds). The bus floor turned into a play area, and soon, bhajans (devotional songs) mixed with film songs.

Breakfast was at Shamlaji, lunch on the Udaipur Highway at Krishna Raj Hotel, featuring Dal Baati Churma and Sabzi Roti. Dinner plans changed from a ₹600-per-person resort meal to a simple ₹200 meal at a roadside dhaba, offering piping hot Aloo Matar Sabzi, Dal, Rice, and buttered Rotis. By night, we reached our stay—a beautiful resort arranged by the Gujarat government, with accommodations comparable to a four-star hotel.

The next day, after an early breakfast, the bus continued via Jhansi and crossed Chitrakoot by noon. Due to heavy traffic, we couldn't stop at Chitrakoot. Eventually, a roadside tea stall provided snacks—samosas, mathris, and tea. By evening, we reached Prayagraj.

The Kumbh Experience

The Amavasya (new moon) night tragedy, where 30 people were trampled to death, had made authorities stricter. Vehicles were parked far from the main area, and pedestrian movement was closely monitored. Our bus stopped at Jasra Underpass, about 20–24 km from our destination. Local youths were offering scooter rides for ₹300-500, but before we could negotiate, police dispersed them.

We began walking, joining thousands of villagers—women carrying loads on their heads, men with bags on their shoulders, and groups moving like a river towards the holy confluence. On one side flowed the actual river, and on the other, a human tide of devotion. Some managed to board a UP Roadways bus but soon encountered a traffic jam. Walking proved faster. By 11 PM, our group reached Sector 6, where the Gujarat government had arranged excellent accommodation, with optional Pav Bhaji available for purchase.

The next morning, we set off for the Sangam Snan (holy dip). Luckily, we received assistance and reached Sector 24, where well-maintained tent accommodations awaited us. A liaison officer welcomed us, sharing our location and inquiring about dinner preferences. Our tent was neat, with three beds, warm blankets, and even a room heater. Dinner included Aloo Gobhi Matar Sabzi, Phulka Roti, Dal, and Rice, making for a satisfying meal before a late-night walk along the Yamuna banks. The entire area was well-lit, with spotless cleanliness, drinking water posts every 100 feet, and public toilets at regular intervals. Lost-and-found announcements, mostly for children and women from Bihar, Jharkhand, Eastern UP, and Bengal, filled the air.

At 4 AM, I woke up, freshened up, and meditated before heading to the riverbank. With some good fortune, we got seats on a VIP boat alongside a High Court judge’s family. As the boat sailed towards Sangam, the morning mist surrounded us, and Siberian gulls soared around, adding to the divine atmosphere. We took a dip at Sangam, offered prayers, and then, in a spontaneous decision, crossed the river in waist-deep water to visit the Akharas (monastic camps). My wife, clad in her pants, joined the walk. With a shoulder bag and upper garments intact, I waded through, making for an amusing sight.

Exploring the Akharas

The Pipa (floating) bridge led us to the Akhara areas, where saffron-colored gates, banners, and flags adorned each camp. From Shankaracharya Peeth to Niranjani, Juna, and Aghori Akharas, every sect had its own space. We met our acquaintance, Kalyandas Maharaj of Amarkantak, who insisted we stay for Prasadi (holy meal). The food—Halwa, Kachori, Matar Usal, and Rasgulla—was divine, especially the Kachori, the tastiest I’ve ever had.

The return journey was long and tiring. Struggling to find transport, we walked, grabbed a local snack, and finally reached our bus at 1 PM. By 2:30 PM, we left Jasra. Unlike the lively onward journey, the return was silent, with exhausted travelers dozing off.

After brief stops at Chitrakoot and a family restaurant for dinner, we reached Mewar Resort past midnight. A refreshing morning bath and a delightful breakfast of Pakoras, Upma, Poha, Fruits, Tea, and Coffee brought smiles back.

Three days earlier, we had left Ahmedabad at 7 AM, and now, after a successful Sangam Snan at the Mahakumbh, we were returning home, deeply grateful to the Gujarat government, its transport services, and tourism team for this unforgettable experience.

Punamchand 

1 February 2025